Originally from Toronto, Canada, Amelia came to visit a friend in Buenos Aires and never left. She has now called the city home for over 7 years. Amelia started a photography tour company here, and has been a part of the Flytographer family since the very start. (Fun fact: she was the second photographer we ever hired!)
“What keeps me here is cheap wine … kidding (but kind of not)! Buenos Aires is an incredibly diverse and vibrant city. For me, every day is a new lesson learning about myself and my adopted city. Life isn’t always easy here, but it’s worth it to make your way, and to enjoy the asados (bbq) and nights full of Malbec that turn into daylight with the best of friends.”
Here is her local guide to what to eat, see and do in the beautiful city of Buenos Aires, Argentina.
MEAT: Lo de Bebe is one of my favourite parrillas. It is quaint and local, and has an amazing atmosphere and even better food. Argentinians pride themselves on preparing meat to perfection. It is common to have achuras on the menu, which are a selection of intestines, kidney, sweet breads, etc. Try the “Tabla de Achuras” if you dare! The good news is you can wash it all down with a very reasonably-priced bottle of Malbec.
CAFE: La Poesía is an old school café that will take you back in time. Sip on a cortado and eat some media lunas with the locals.
WHEN YOU CAN’T EAT MORE MEAT: Proper Restaurant is incredible! Housed in a former auto body shop, you’ll enjoy creative dishes using local ingredients. They don’t take reservations, so get there as soon as they open! Not to be missed.
Pork flank, onion, preserved lemon, and green onion
Calamar with broccoli and fermented bean aioli
OFF-THE-BEATEN-PATH NEIGHBOURHOOD: There are lots of interesting things to do and see outside of the touristy neighbourhoods and many local barrios that will give you a feel for the “real” Buenos Aires. My favourites are Boedo, Chacarita and Caballito. In Caballito, there is a little shop called La Epoca – it is timeless. One half is an old-school barber shop and the other is a café. After 4pm on Fridays, the cutest older folk gather for tango singing.
GRAFFITI: There are loads of places all over the city with incredible graffiti. Take a wander around the little side streets of Palermo Soho for a great opportunity to take some colourful photos.
CEMETERY: You can visit the famous Recoleta Cemetery, but my choice is to go to the less-travelled but equally amazing Chacarita Cemetery. The mausoleums will blow your mind!
TANGO: La Catedral is the classic go-to place for tango. Head there early for a tango lesson before the milonga and stay late.
MARKET: Feria de Mataderos is my all-time fave. It’s not as popular with tourists as the San Telmo market, which is one of the things that makes it more attractive (and prices are much lower). It’s only open in summer months, so check the website. Besides the incredible market and perfect empanada stands, there are gauchos and folk music and dancing to a live band. It’s a bit of a trek, so best to take taxi there and back.
Delicious artisanal cheeses and charcuterie (picada)